According to Mark Twain, “Clothes do make the man; naked people have very little effect on the world.” If Twain was right, and he usually was, then gentlemen need to dress carefully. Details will vary depending on your profession, your locale and the attitudes of whatever group is hosting the event, but there are a few almost universal rules to being properly dressed. They’re easy to learn and to follow, and they are important.
Half a century ago, more formal attire was the standard: A tuxedo was called a dinner jacket because you didn’t go out for dinner without one. A man wore his three-piece business suit to the baseball or football stadium because it was a status symbol — wearing suits was a right to be earned, and those who earned it showed off their accomplishment. More casual is the modern rule, and that makes it more important to know what to wear and when to wear it. Today’s menswear falls into a few basic categories:
Formal
Formal still means tuxedos; formal events are rare in most people’s lives, other than as part of a wedding party, but they still happen. If you have more than one or two per year, buy a tux, you’ll save a boatload of money over renting. Also, be aware there is a difference between ‘black tie’ and ‘white tie’ (and it isn’t the tie): Black tie means a tuxedo; the tie and cummerbund (or waistcoat) colors are wearer’s choice, as long as they match. White tie events no average person ever gets invited to attend. It means a white tie, white waistcoat and formal jacket with tails (top hat and cane optional).
Semi-formal
Opinions vary, but semi-formal really means a business suit with a dress shirt and necktie. You might see others in blazer and slacks at semi-formal events. This is acceptable, but, if you dress correctly, not acceptably, you will definitely get favorable reviews. Dress shoes are a must.
Business
Business dress varies by company; suits are still expected in many companies and by some professions; blazer (or sport jacket) and dress slacks with dress shirt and tie are acceptable in most places. Business casual, meaning dress slacks and a polo shirt (with sleeves and collar and, ideally, a fancy name-brand logo), is gaining wide acceptance. Dress shoes are preferred; some companies are okay with athletic shoes. Some companies are also okay with extremely casual dress.
Casual
Casual means whatever the host or boss says it means. That can be khakis, polo shirt and loafers or shorts, tank top and sandals. Know your host and you won’t embarrass yourself.
Specialty
Uniforms, work clothes, sleepwear, etc. This catch-all category can be pretty fluid: Specific sports are using more specialized clothing. Many men wear work uniforms outside the jobsite. Scrubs or hoodies and sweatpants are commonly worn in place of pajamas. This is truly the wear-what-you-like arena, unless there’s a good reason to wear something specific.
General tips
If you don’t care what people think, wear whatever. If a restaurant refuses you service because you’re in denim jeans, leather jacket or a pullover, you probably wouldn’t enjoy eating there anyway. If you want a career as a lawyer, banker or politician, pick up several men’s suits, some silk ties and a closet full of dress shirts, including several white ones. You won’t get far without them.
The basic rules are simple: Dress to the event, dress to the location, follow the leader (your host, employer, etc.). It is not about ‘the right’ clothes, it’s about courtesy and the group dynamic, both of which are important. Being properly dressed is a statement that you know what is going on, that you are part of the group, and that you want to be taken seriously (even if the group is the Association of Clowns, Jokers and Court Jesters).
Men’s clothing fabrics
Acrylic, Nylon, Polyester, Rayon, etc.: Synthetic fibers are easier to clean, but mostly lack the durability or appearance of naturals. The double-knit leisure suit is a nightmare from which some of us may never wake up, but new synthetics are vastly superior to those of a generation ago and some weaves come close to the quality and appearance of natural fibers.
Blends: Wool-polyester blends, silk-wool and silk-linen blends lower costs without significantly reducing quality.
Cotton: A natural fiber which, overall, makes the best dress shirts; used for all types of men’s clothing from boxer shorts to robes to cargo pants. Cotton wrinkles easily, though some new weaves are treated to be no-iron. (Still, a regular touch-up is recommended.)
Leather and suede: Animal skins treated to resist rot and shrinkage, full-grain leather means the whole hide, it’s the thickest, most durable and best looking option. Leather jackets can be styled just like a sport jacket or express the rebellious fringes of the 1960s. Motorcycling without a leather vest is just wrong; leather pants should be limited by law to Hollywood actors and rock-n-roll stars under age 60.
Linen: A natural fiber from the flax plant; stronger, stiffer and more lustrous than cotton; traditional in tropical weight business suits and good for shirts. Linen also wrinkles easily, but a little extra care is a small price to pay for a fine shirt.
Microfibers: A new class of synthetics, spun thinner than silk, they approach the look and feel of natural fibers at much lower cost and the weave is so tight they are very close to waterproof.
Silk: The finest natural fabric — spun on the looms of the gods, according to legend — nothing comes close in luster, warmth, strength or durability for any article of clothing. Unfortunately, it is also the most expensive and difficult to maintain. For the average man, pure silk is best limited to ties.
Spandex: A synthetic fiber most known for its elastic quality; very popular in fitness gear and superhero costumes.
Wool: The hair of certain animals; varies in grade from good to heavenly. The best affordable suits are 100-percent virgin wool. Some wools are of such quality they are never just called wool: alpaca from the South American alpaca, angora from the Angora rabbit, cashmere from the Kashmir sheep and mohair from the Angora goat. Every gentleman’s wardrobe should include a camel hair blazer — from the Bactrian (two-hump) camel.
Men’s clothing care
Shirts, pants, coats, pajamas, etc, are all designed for specific uses; use it to its design — wear business apparel at work, formal wear at parties, sports apparel at the game (playing, not watching!) and casual apparel for everything else.
In general, wools and silks should be dry cleaned and pressed; cotton and linen can be machine washed (except for suits) and ironed afterwards; many synthetics are wash-n-wear; leather should be hand cleaned gently with leather cleaner or taken to a professional.
Common men’s clothing questions
Do men ever even notice other men’s clothing?
Yes, especially bosses thinking about promotions. No joke, many think that if you care enough about the details of your clothing to do it right, you’ll probably care enough about the details of the business to do it right.
How do I know it will fit?
Know your size before you make any purchases. Any good clothing store will measure you, even if you don’t buy from them. Sizing guides help you determine your shirts, pants and blazer sizes, so you can buy with confidence. Since very few people are ‘average,’ you may need slight alterations with some pieces due to your individual body measurements. The better clothing stores all have an in-house tailor who will adjust your clothing free if you bought it there, for a small fee if you didn’t.
What colors go together?
That depends on taste. Black, white and gray match everything. Some men won’t wear suits at all unless they are black, gray or dark blue. Brown is widely accepted for business suits, green and other colors are not. Some people won’t wear browns and blues together. The more casual the style, the more freedom you have with colors.
What never looks good?
Clothes that don’t fit — too tight, too baggy, long sleeves that don’t reach the wrist, long pants that don’t touch the shoes.
Colors that don’t match (including some shades of the same color).
Brown dress shoes with anything except brown or khaki pants.
White socks with dress shoes.
Dress shoes, black socks and shorts, except in Bermuda.
Combovers.
If you’ve graduated from college, anything you wore in high school.
Final thought: “My best suit.”
Every man should have one complete suit — including shirt and tie — kept exclusively for weddings, funerals, executive interviews, court appearances, IRS audits and other serious occasions. Wear it, get it professionally clean and pressed (shirt included), put it back in a garment bag and don’t wear it again until the next life-altering event. These are the times you need the best to look your best, so find yourself a good sale, make the investment in yourself and don’t worry about price.
Phoenix Roberts has been a journalist, freelance writer and desktop publisher for over 10 years. His articles have appeared in local, regional and national publications and he’s worked for numerous corporate, community and political clients. Among his pre-journalism jobs, he sold menswear for one of New York’s major clothiers. Presently, he is an SEO Content Writer for Internet discount retailer Overstock.com (http://www.overstock.com)
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